Chronicling the experience of a New England Family spending a year living in the Loire Valley of France.

Wednesday, December 28, 2011

The Christmas Capital of Europe

Around October I began to realize we would be spending our Christmas tout seul. It hit me when I started hearing of all the travel plans of the families around us. It seems very few of the people here live nearby their extended family. Thus, the holidays mean road trips for people to visit grandparents dans le pays. (Please appreciate the humor in our environment being considered something other than "in the country." I cannot imagine how remote is the housing of the elderly family members of Cravant.) But for us, the holidays normally mean an Advent filled with a varietal feast of visits with friends and family. This year, it was shaping up to be a time of social famine. I couldn't bear the thought.

This was the inspiration for a search on Google for the best place to celebrate Christmas in France, which lead me to Strasbourg in the northeastern corner. Strasbourg is perhaps most famous for being the home of the first Gutenberg press, and thus, where the first Holy Bible was printed. Sadly, while the love of the written word has been woven deeply into this city, the love of the written Word has not. But it was easy to overlook the very secular-humanitarian emphasis amidst all the lights and one of the most glorious cathedrals I've yet to behold. It held very true to it's claim of being a Christmas Capital. I've never set eyes on a more gloriously decorated city.

This tree is located in the center of town - in a huge courtyard next to the town hall. For one of the days while we were there, it was surrounded by an open-air market.


Every street was decorated with rows upon rows of lights - each street was different. I should have taken more pictures of the variety. There were angels, chandeliers, stars, snowflakes...

This is where we had lunch. I had a dish traditional to this area - ham, sauerkraut, and potatoes. It was YUM! David had a traditional soup - which was called something like "3 meats" - but turned out to be a fish stew with potatoes. Not what he expected, but delicious nonetheless. Bo had chicken and french fries (of course), but Vivi tried and loved spaetzle.



We spent our time strolling the markets:

This vendor was selling slabs of a nougat candy. We bought one loaded with almonds and swirls of Nutella and let me tell you - it was AMAZING. Like a Snickers gone gourmet. I'm drooling just remembering it.

We also went ice skating next to the cathedral:
And in Besancon on the way to Strasbourg, we enjoyed an evening ride in a ferris wheel!
The view of the market from the wheel:
I'm so glad we did this. It was so much better making these memories than sitting alone in Cravant just missing home. Merry Christmas everybody!

7 comments:

  1. Way cool! Thanks for sharing!!!
    Vickie

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  2. Did you cross over into Germany on the trip - just cuz?

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  3. Nope Allison - we aren't supposed to leave the country with P&S's car - so we stayed this side of the river. :-) But it is pretty amazing how much Strasbourg looks German, huh?

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  4. please tell me that you had gluhwein or turbopunsch or some equivalent at the Adventmarkt...warms the insides on the cold nights...also, thank you for sharing, it was like we were in Vienna again. JB

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  5. please tell me that you had gluhwein or turbopunsch or some equivalent while at the open-air market (Adventmarkt)...warms the insides on cold nights...also, indeed, thank you for sharing...it was like we were back in Vienna again. (and so glad you were able to celebrate Christmas in this way...there is nothing in the states that even comes close) JB

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  6. hmmm...sadly I don't know what gluhwein or turbopunsch are - because here in France they use FRENCH words ;-P - but we did have hot mulled wine, or "vin chaud." Does that count? We should chat because David and I are trying to decide on other part(s) of Europe to try to see before we come home and Vienna is a contender.

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  7. Wow, beautiful! Rochester actually does a pretty good job of decorating -ha! but this is spectacular! I knew you'd find special ways of making this Christmas a blessed one, even away from all you know & love :) Love, Stacy

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