My Successful Afternoon

It is the little successes which seem to make all the difference when you find yourself immersed in a different culture with a different language. Yesterday I had so many of these glorious seconds they added up to an entire afternoon where I felt almost at-home.

After lunch (which pretty consistently is comprised of baguette, Nutella, fruit, sliced tomato, mouse de canard and a Fresca-like drink called Jean's Citron), the children and I headed into Chinon to meet up with a "fellow" B&B manager.

The first little success of the outing was simply in the drive there. Given the expert training in how to drive offensively by my dad, I am finding it very comfortable on French roads (so long as I'm in a car and there are no big trucks nearby). I feel so much less the "rude speed demon" next to french drivers I might finally be willing to put a Christian fish emblem on my car (if it were my car). It's fun being surrounded by crazier drivers than myself for a change!

We parked the car in a lot and walked to my friend's B&B a few blocks into the center of town. If you recall my photos of Chinon, you will understand why I didn't attempt to drive directly to her home. The roads in the center of the towns are akin to our sidewalks back home. On the walk over I made a spectacular discovery: the GRETA office - which is where David and I will register for French classes. They have virtually no on-line presence (other than a site entirely in French, which as I'm sure you can imagine is utterly useless to someone looking to register for beginner French). We were beginning to worry we would never be able to find them in time for the Fall semester as not many French people know GRETA's whereabouts, being they don't typically require French language lessons. I vowed I would stop by on my way back to the car and get us registered.

Once we successfully navigated the alleys (or maybe major thoroughfares, you truly can't tell them apart) to Helene's house - we enjoyed a sublime visit in the most lovely ancient stone-wall-enclosed garden (I really should have taken my camera). It seemed straight out of "Secret Garden." Her B&B is situated in the heart of Chinon and the house is completely dreamy with a spiral staircase enclosed in a honest-to-God castle-like turret and vibrant kitchen with mismatched cabinets and hardware. It was an eclectic explosion of red, orange, yellow, green and blue. Her decorating taste was so fun and elegant - how she successfully combines these seemingly opposed elements is beyond me, but it works!

Helene offered me un petit cafe - akin to an espresso - served in an adorable chartreuse demitasse with a built-in spoon holder in the handle. (Again, I wish I could have taken a photo.) With one sugar cube, it was deee-lish. (I fear I may finally develop a taste for this addictive beverage while here.) Helene's English is about as good as my French - which means we went back and forth between the two languages with a humorous blend of comprehension and patience. But we managed to discuss a great deal; including running a B&B, the differences with the clientele, raising children to appreciate diversity, and life in Chinon. In the end, I left her magical courtyard with quite the sense of accomplishment and contentment.

The children and I then stopped by the now closed Greta office where I noted their office hours, which more than likely mean absolutely nothing as I find most businesses take an "open when we feel like it" approach to their schedules. (Something that makes me think my father is more French than he lets on - unless this is typical of the Irish as well.)

When we arrived at the park (the reward for such well-behaved children at a boring Frenglish coffee date), it was so quintessentially "Summer in France" I spun round searching for the Hollywood film crew. In the courtyard an impressively numerous group of retired men were playing Petanque, a little family played in the playground (actually the mom was playing with the children while that dad reclined on a bench enjoying his cigarette), while a group of raucous teenagers invaded the playground equipment, consequently scaring the family away. I savored it all with the most ridiculous Cheshire grin that the old men gave me strange looks and, while I didn't comprehend what the teenagers were saying about me, I am sure it was colorfully critical. I chatted a bit with a little girl desperate to play with Bo & Vivi, who were too busy noticing the language barrier to see the playmate potential. We made do with my French (what is the word for "swing?") and managed alright.

After a bit we headed off to Leclerc to pick up a few necessities (baguette, some baguette and then a little baguette. And also a light bulb). I laughed out loud at my recognition of our checkout clerk. Imagine! I'm in a store the size of a super Wal-mart, I've only been here for two weeks and I already recognize the check-out lady?! That tells you how often I'm making the mad dash for - you guessed it - more baguette!!

Oh, how I hope these successes are a sign that I've turned the corner from a rather terrifying last-week into comfortably settling in for our year en francais!